Back ] Home ] Next ]

 

ALFRED BINYON WRITES TO GEORGE WEBSTER ABOUT HIS FAMILY'S HOLIDAY IN THE PYRENEES

 

Luz, Hautes Pyrenees  

Sunday Sept 11th 1853  

To George Webster Esq  

My dear Sir  

I write to you from this place not to describe to you what we have seen but what we are suffering. Mrs Binyon and I have been here 12 days … daughter Emily who took the smallpox somewhere on our journey … laid her up completely on our arrival here.  

We got to Bagneres de Bigorre on the 21st ult. I took a very nice house, with grounds as extensive and very similar to Yewbarrow[1] for one month. After exploring Bagneres we are setting off to Cauterets through the celebrated valley of Argeles (?) which is indeed most beautiful. At Cauterets Emily took to her bed and Miss Brown stayed with her - the rest of us went to the Pont d'Espagne on horses, except that Mrs B[2] had a chaise a porteurs. The ascent is very steep and rapid, the gorge of the Gave de Pau very fine and the Cascades the very … I have ever seen. We returned by the same road that we came as far as Pierifitte, then turned to the right through a lovely valley to this place which is the great starting point for the Cirque de Gavarnie. Luz is a small … village, situated very beautifully in a basin from where you see through fine valleys - one to Pierifitte, one to Bareges, and the other to Gavarnie. There are two ruins of castles built by the Templars, and the church also belonged to them and is surrounded by fortifications.  

At first we thought Emily's … only temporary but on the second day here we consulted the only doctor in the place, who is … Inspecteur of the Military Hospital at Bareges 5½ miles from here where he goes daily. We like him much, he has a keen eye, is prompt, decisive, and does … much medicine. … At first he hoped it was only the chickenpox, but he saw his mistake. We sent the rest of the family to Bagneres de Bigorre and have had them re-vaccinated. I am happy to tell you that our dear daughter is progressing favourably. She has suffered much, but we hope this dreadful malady will leave no trace. The flies have greatly annoyed her.  

The weather here has been quite cool and the mountain tops are all covered in snow. On Friday week the whole family except Mrs B, Emily and Alice Maud,[3] accompanied by M. … and his daughter, set off from here to Gavarnie, the utmost boundary of France, above which place is the celebrated Breche de Roland into Spain. It is 17 miles from here and the ladies bore the journey very well. We left at 10 and returned by 7pm.  

The village of Luz is 2140 feet above the line of the sea, and the Pic de Bergons overlooking the town is 6336 above the sea. I mounted it on horseback the other day. I had a glorious view of the surrounding alpine scenery. The air was bracing and delicious. It is green to the top and I gathered some box growing on the very summit. In fact the peculiarity of the Pyrenean scenery is that, except for those covered with eternal snow, are all green to the top - this is a distinctive difference from Switzerland.  

 I go to Saint Sauveur for medicine - it is a beautiful spot - there are only 25 to 30 houses, all apartments garnis and chiefly occupied by the French aristocracy and … during the season now about to close. It is the last place in France to which there is a carriage road. In going to Gavarnie you must either ride or be carried in a chaise a porteurs, the cost of which latter operation is 45 francs.  

We were in Paris 3 days. Saturday was occupied at the Louvre, Sunday to chapel amidst a review of 20,000 troops by the Emperor, Monday the grand Fete given by the city of Paris to the Emperor and Empress, half the cost of which was paid by the Government, a most gorgeous affair. Tuesday to Poitiers by the Naire (?), a most … old place full of antiquities. Wednesday Bordeaux so full of visitors there we were glad after arriving there at 11 at night to put our heads into a Restaurant which proved by daylight a most disagreeable dirty place, the smell of cooking abominable. Temperature 84 in our bedroom. Thursday stayed to survey the city, which is a very fine one. Friday set off in a … carriage holding all of us and a cousin (except luggage) and posted it with 4 horses to Agen, stayed all night, next day Saturday to Auch. Stayed Sunday there, but it was so hot that we could not venture out until evening. At bedtime saw the most vivid and long continued lightning. I was … we were truly in a southern climate by the number of lizards crawling on the walls. Monday reached Bagneres at dusk, having to stay several hours at Tarbes from the number of travellers. Our friend M. Tronssard was awaiting our arrival on the outside of the town. We stayed at the Hotel de France the first night and then took possession of our house called Maison Bordeu. We have hired a bonne[4] for the month at 25F. She is the most attentive creature I ever saw. We have our dinner sent from the Hotel and buy our own groceries, wine and bread. It is rather different to Grange I assure you, and will be endurable for a short time as the evenings get cool …  

I often think of Merlewood and wish I could have daguerrotypes sent me of its progress. I am getting anxious to return although I have received decided benefit from the change of air and scene - all is quite posh and new to us all … decidedly different from any other part of France, most picturesque as you will see by the engravings we shall bring home. The neighbourhood of Bagneres abounds with the most beautiful marbles. I have not seen the celebrated works there, we shall do so on our return. If I were a young man I should like to establish a connection with this district. It abounds in so much memorable … the window sills in the house I am now in are all of beautiful marble and the chimney pieces are also of a different kind. I will try to fix the tone of density of the blue sky I now look upon and compare it with that of Grange, my opinion is that it is many degrees darker and clearer. Mrs Binyon thinks the contrary. I never longed so much in my life as now to be able to sketch the beautiful outlines of the lofty mountains now surrounding us. The ruins of St Marie, an old feudal castle close to the town, have an enchanting view from them of St Sauveur and I am sure would tempt an artist to exert his skill.  

Our dear invalid is going to get up for the first time. La bonne is lighting the fire, which I rather suspect will smoke. With our united very kind regards to Mrs Webster, yourself and daughters I must now bid you adieu! With strong desire soon to see again Grange, which will have not lost any of its charms.  

Your sincere friend

Alfred Binyon  


Original letter held by Cumbria Record Office, Kendal (reference WDX1315) and included with their permission.

[1] Yewbarrow, Grange-over-Sands, where Alfred and family were living whilst Merlewood was being built.

[2] Alfred's wife Lucy Binyon.

[3] Alfred and Lucy's youngest daughter.

[4] maid.

 

[Contents]