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ALFRED BINYON
WRITES TO GEORGE WEBSTER ABOUT HIS FAMILY'S HOLIDAY IN THE PYRENEES Luz,
Hautes Pyrenees Sunday
Sept 11th 1853 To
George Webster Esq My
dear Sir I
write to you from this place not to describe to you what we have seen but what
we are suffering. Mrs Binyon and I have been here 12 days … daughter Emily who
took the smallpox somewhere on our journey … laid her up completely on our
arrival here. We
got to Bagneres de Bigorre on the 21st ult. I took a very nice house,
with grounds as extensive and very similar to Yewbarrow[1]
for one month. After exploring Bagneres we are setting off to Cauterets through
the celebrated valley of Argeles (?) which is indeed most beautiful. At
Cauterets Emily took to her bed and Miss Brown stayed with her - the rest of us
went to the Pont d'Espagne on horses, except that Mrs B[2]
had a chaise a porteurs. The ascent is
very steep and rapid, the gorge of the Gave de Pau very fine and the Cascades
the very … I have ever seen. We returned by the same road that we came as far
as Pierifitte, then turned to the right through a lovely valley to this place
which is the great starting point for the Cirque de Gavarnie. Luz is a small …
village, situated very beautifully in a basin from where you see through fine
valleys - one to Pierifitte, one to Bareges, and the other to Gavarnie. There
are two ruins of castles built by the Templars, and the church also belonged to
them and is surrounded by fortifications. At
first we thought Emily's … only temporary but on the second day here we
consulted the only doctor in the place, who is … Inspecteur of the Military
Hospital at Bareges 5½ miles from here where he goes daily. We like him much,
he has a keen eye, is prompt, decisive, and does … much medicine. … At first
he hoped it was only the chickenpox, but he saw his mistake. We sent the rest of
the family to Bagneres de Bigorre and have had them re-vaccinated. I am happy to
tell you that our dear daughter is progressing favourably. She has suffered
much, but we hope this dreadful malady will leave no trace. The flies have
greatly annoyed her. The
weather here has been quite cool and the mountain tops are all covered in snow.
On Friday week the whole family except Mrs B, Emily and Alice Maud,[3]
accompanied by M. … and his daughter, set off from here to Gavarnie, the
utmost boundary of France, above which place is the celebrated Breche de Roland
into Spain. It is 17 miles from here and the ladies bore the journey very well.
We left at 10 and returned by 7pm. The
village of Luz is 2140 feet above the line of the sea, and the Pic de Bergons
overlooking the town is 6336 above the sea. I mounted it on horseback the other
day. I had a glorious view of the surrounding alpine scenery. The air was
bracing and delicious. It is green to the top and I gathered some box growing on
the very summit. In fact the peculiarity of the Pyrenean scenery is that, except
for those covered with eternal snow, are all green to the top - this is a
distinctive difference from Switzerland. I
go to Saint Sauveur for medicine - it is a beautiful spot - there are only 25 to
30 houses, all apartments garnis and
chiefly occupied by the French aristocracy and … during the season now about
to close. It is the last place in France to which there is a carriage road. In
going to Gavarnie you must either ride or be carried in a chaise
a porteurs, the cost of which latter operation is 45 francs. We
were in Paris 3 days. Saturday was occupied at the Louvre, Sunday to chapel
amidst a review of 20,000 troops by the Emperor, Monday the grand Fete given by
the city of Paris to the Emperor and Empress, half the cost of which was paid by
the Government, a most gorgeous affair. Tuesday to Poitiers by the Naire (?), a
most … old place full of antiquities. Wednesday Bordeaux so full of visitors
there we were glad after arriving there at 11 at night to put our heads into a
Restaurant which proved by daylight a most disagreeable dirty place, the smell
of cooking abominable. Temperature 84 in our bedroom. Thursday stayed to survey
the city, which is a very fine one. Friday set off in a … carriage holding all
of us and a cousin (except luggage) and posted it with 4 horses to Agen, stayed
all night, next day Saturday to Auch. Stayed Sunday there, but it was so hot
that we could not venture out until evening. At bedtime saw the most vivid and
long continued lightning. I was … we were truly in a southern climate by the
number of lizards crawling on the walls. Monday reached Bagneres at dusk, having
to stay several hours at Tarbes from the number of travellers. Our friend M.
Tronssard was awaiting our arrival on the outside of the town. We stayed at the
Hotel de France the first night and then took possession of our house called
Maison Bordeu. We have hired a bonne[4]
for the month at 25F. She is the most attentive creature I ever saw. We have
our dinner sent from the Hotel and buy our own groceries, wine and bread. It is
rather different to Grange I assure you, and will be endurable for a short time
as the evenings get cool … I
often think of Merlewood and wish I could have daguerrotypes sent me of its
progress. I am getting anxious to return although I have received decided
benefit from the change of air and scene - all is quite posh and new to us all
… decidedly different from any other part of France, most picturesque as you
will see by the engravings we shall bring home. The neighbourhood of Bagneres
abounds with the most beautiful marbles. I have not seen the celebrated works
there, we shall do so on our return. If I were a young man I should like
to establish a connection with this district. It abounds in so much
memorable … the window sills in the house I am now in are all of beautiful
marble and the chimney pieces are also of a different kind. I will try to fix
the tone of density of the blue sky I now look upon and compare it with that of
Grange, my opinion is that it is many degrees darker and clearer. Mrs Binyon
thinks the contrary. I never longed so much in my life as now to be able to
sketch the beautiful outlines of the lofty mountains now surrounding us. The
ruins of St Marie, an old feudal castle close to the town, have an enchanting
view from them of St Sauveur and I am sure would tempt an artist to exert his
skill. Our
dear invalid is going to get up for the first time. La bonne is lighting the fire, which I rather suspect will smoke.
With our united very kind regards to Mrs Webster, yourself and daughters I must
now bid you adieu! With strong desire soon to see again Grange, which will have
not lost any of its charms. Your
sincere friend Alfred
Binyon Original letter held by Cumbria Record Office, Kendal (reference WDX1315) and included with their permission. |